Stay in Jerusalem overnight. Wonder the Old City, and the Souq at night. It's as simple as that. Tour groups leave. Most shops that sell souvenirs are closed, or the shop owners are tired enough and tamed.
We've walked into an little store where the shopkeeper was restoring old coins. Sat down and had a conversation. I've asked him if I could take his photo. It was a great connection with an interesting person. A connection that spanned languages and generations.